Reproduction upper glass. Looks exactly like the original except made from Lexan plastic, $689.00. Made to the correct full size of 6"x30", but you must
reuse the existing metal edge-trim pieces from your old glass. Shipping and insurance is extra on all items.
Slot Machine Restoration
This is a payout gambling machine made in the 1930s that plays the dice game of craps. It's simply called "Mills Dice."
You can place up to three seperate bets at once, each costing a quarter. When you place your bets and crank the handle, a pair of dice
are heard to shake and are then thrown into the large glass dome viewing window. The three individual bets that you can make are:
"Eleven" which pays 16 to 1, the "Field" which pays 2 to 1, and the "Come" which pays 2 to 1.
The Eleven and Field bets are good for a single pull of the handle. New bets can be placed in these coin slots every handle pull if desired.
When betting on the Come, if you roll a 7 or 11, you instantly win two coins.
If instead you roll a 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10, this is called your "point." The coin you just bet will appear in the appropriate point pocket window
for all to see. You then keep playing the game (for free) by cranking the handle repeatedly,
which re-throws the dice. You continue to play until either your point is made (you win two coins) or you roll a 7 (loser) which ends the game.
In either case, once you win or lose, your coin drops out of the point pocket and the game is over.
The really facinating thing about this all mechanical game, is that it not only keeps track of multiple bets placed on Eleven, Field, and Come,
but it also keeps track of multiple Come bets that can be made one after another. A new come-out bet can be placed
every time the handle is pulled, even if you're already playing for a point (or even playing for multiple points)! Let me explain.
Let's say you start a brand new game by placing a Come bet and you roll a 6 on the dice. Your quarter drops into the 6 point pocket window.
Now before pulling the handle and trying for your point, you can place a new Come bet. So now when the dice are thrown,
the previous bet is hoping for a 6 while the new Come bet is hoping for a 7. If a 7 is rolled, the Come bet wins (you get paid for that)
but the point bet loses, which causes the #6 point pocket to open and the coin drops into the owner's cash box. If a 6 is thrown,
the existing 6 point wins, that coin is cleared from the pocket, and then the Come bet (coin) drops into
the #6 pocket (replacing the previous coin that just vacated this pocket).
So you get to keep rollin' them bones, hoping for another 6. If a different point is made instead
(4, 5, 8, 9, or 10), you will now have multiple point pockets with coins displayed in them. Lucky shooters can fill all six point pockets with coins.
Then all subsequent points thrown on the dice will pay off as that new Come bet replaces the previous point, and the player just keeps on rolling.
But be careful. If you throw a 7, all points pockets drop their coins and the game is over (you just Crapped-Out)!
Do you like to put puzzles together?
Here's the machine completely disassembled, during the restoration process.
100 hours went into the tear-down, cleaning, repair, re-assembly and adjustment of this mechanism.
I've created an instructional DVD video in high-definition, that was taken during the restoration of this game. The video runs approximately 1 hour & 38 minutes,
and contains the following thirteen chapters: 1) Introduction. 2) How Does it Read the Dice? 3) Place Your Bets. 4) Removing Mech From Cabinet.
5) Mech Assembly Process. 6) Clock and Tilt Mechs. 7) Dice Shaker/Sound Generator. 8) Interaction Between Mech and Cabinet. 9) Payout Sequence.
10) Repairs. 11) Mech Adjustments. 12) Cabinet refinishing. 13) Conclusion.
This DVD walks you through the complete assembly process and also shows you every adjustment on the mechanism. I describe each adjustment's purpose and how
to check for proper operation. I also show you how to cycle the mechanism outside of the cabinet and control the dice wheel so that any winning or losing
combination can be quickly and easily tested. This DVD is available for purchase in two formats:
High-Def: 720 lines of resolution, 4:3 aspect ratio, recorded on DVD+R 4.7GB media. Will play on all modern DVD players. Price = $68.95 plus shipping.
These DVDs will also play on your personal computer, but your microprocessor needs to be a high-speed/multi-core type, or else the video playback will freeze and skip, etc.
CLICK HERE to watch a brief portion (part 1) of the full restoration video.
CLICK HERE to watch part 2 of the full restoration "sneek-preview" video.
Do you need new dice for your Mills Dice machine?
These are brand new replacement dice of the correct size and translucent color.
They have rounded corners to prevent jamming and depressed white spots so the numbers won't wear off.
Price is $8.50 each, $28.95 for 5pcs, or $78.95 for 31pcs (that's a complete set of 30 dice plus one extra as a spare).
Please contact me for a shipping quote to your location.
These are more (all mechanical) payout dice machines, also made in the 1930s. The red machine is a Buckley Bones.
The yellow one is a Bally Reliance. They both use the same internal mechanism. When you insert a coin and crank the handle, a pair of dice
are heard to shake and are then thrown into the left-side viewing window. This is your "come-out" roll. If you roll a 7 or 11, you instantly win two coins.
If you roll a 2, 3, or 12, then you have just "Crapped-Out" and the game ends (handle cannot be cranked until another coin is played).
If you roll a 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10, this is your "point" and you get to continue playing the game (for free) by cranking the handle repeatedly,
which then throws out a second pair of dice in the right-side viewing window. You continue to crank the handle and roll the right hand dice until either your
point is made (you win) or you roll a 7 (a loser) which ends the game. If you win on the point roll, a 6 or 8 will pay two coins while a 4, 5, 9, or 10
will pay eight coins. The game also has a jackpot that is equivalent to 100 coins. The jackpot, called the "Gold Award," can be seen through a window
on the front of the machine. The award is a gold token that is good for 100 coins when presented to the owner of the machine. Each coin has a unique
serial number stamped on its back so the proprietor could keep track of the winners and also verify that the gold coin came from his machine.
I have posted a five part video series on YouTube that walks you through the complete operation of the Buckley Bones and shows the game in action.
Details include the machine completely torn apart and then reassembled.
CLICK HERE for Part 1.
CLICK HERE for Part 2.
CLICK HERE for Part 3.
CLICK HERE for Part 4.
CLICK HERE for Part 5.
An upright single-wheel slot machine with a patent date of 1899, made by the Mills Novelty Company in Chicago, IL. This is the "Two Bits Dewey" model. Two Bits means that is takes a quarter to play (as eight bits = $1.00). Mills also included a pair or horse bridal bits (two bits) on the center glass to further tie in the theme of 25 cent play. Most machines at the start of the 20th century were a penny or nickle play. The Dewey model was named after Admiral Dewey who had just returned as a naval war hero after winning a key battle in the Spanish-American War. The Dewey came in a number of variations including a model that had a visible jackpot, a model that played a music cylinder in its base with every handle pull, and a variety of cabinet metal castings, center glass designs, and color wheel designs.
CLICK HERE to watch my video of how the machine works both inside and out.
These are before and after pictures of a slot machine from the 1930s, made by the Mills Novelty Co. It is called an "FOK Vendor" (which stands for Front O.K. Vendor).
This machine vends a roll of mints for each nickel played, it was a way to get around the gambling laws of some states because you
"got something for your money" so it wasn't a
"gambling device" (that's what the manufacturer claimed, most law enforcement
officials didn't agree...). This slot machine also tells your fortune by lining up words of a complete sentence across the three reels.
Each spin of the reels lined up different parts of the sentence to form your complete fortune.
Pneumatic Gambling Games
This is a payout gambling machine from the 1930s. It's called Paces Races. I restored this machine for a customer in Beverly Hills, CA.
The game uses an electric motor to pump a set of pneumatic bellows, which creates a constant vacuum that runs the entire game.
You can watch three videos of the game in action by clicking on the links below. The position of each horse as they move
alone the track, is determined by holes punched in a piano roll. The roll is pulled over a tracker bar in the same fashion as player pianos
of the same vintage. As the holes in the paper pass over the tracker bar, air is sucked into various valves that open and cause larger
bellows to collapse. These larger bellows are linked to the horses and cause them to jump or gallop towards the finish line.
Many other things are happening inside this game, and it's all driven by vacuum! The game is a payout slot machine with jackpot feature.
You win the jackpot if your horse comes in first, has 30-to-1 payout odds (set at the start of each game, after the horses
take off running), and if the "lucky fortune wheel" (which also spins after game start) lands on a horseshoe symbol with the word
"Winner"
written on it.
Paces Races uses a set or fourteen rubber bumpers which act as cushions or shock absorbers for the wooden racks that advance the horses.
The thicker bumpers go on the inside and the thinner bumpers go on the outside as seen here. I sell brand new bumpers, shown in the
first picture, for $32.95 per full set of 14pcs, or $22.95 for two or more sets.
I have posted three videos on YouTube that walk you through the operation of Paces Races and show the game in action.
CLICK HERE fot Part 1.
CLICK HERE for Part 2.
CLICK HERE for Part 3.
Electro-Mechanical Arcade Games
Genco's Space Age
This is a very rare arcade game from 1958. America was in the "Cold War" and using Atlas Rockets as the vehicle to carry atomic warheads.
This game is very "period specific" as our nation's defense was focused on launching and testing rockets and missiles in the late 1950s.
For a dime, you get 2 minutes to drive an army truck and load as many rockets as you can with their payloads.
This game received a full restoration that took 6 months to complete (from January to June, 2017).
This game is one of three that used the same cabinet style. The three matching games are: Genco Space Age, Genco Motorama, and Chicago Coin's Jet Pilot.
CLICK HERE to watch the full restoration video.
I make Brand New Reproduction Tires for Space Age and Motorama.
All dimensions (O.D., I.D., and width) on these tires are critical to proper game play. If the tires have a larger O.D., the metal plate protuding from the undercarriage will not hang low enough and therefore fail to activate the playfield roll-over switches. A tire diameter too small will cause the metal plate to drag on the playfield and the tires will slip. I could not find a toy company or scale model manufacturer that is currently making the exact size tire needed for this game, so I made molds from the original tires and I am hand pouring my own reproduction rubber tires.
I have matched the durometer of new original tires so they give excellent performance. They are cast with polyurethane rubber and then "post-cure heat treated" to provide many years of flexibility and durability. Even the original tire tread has been replicated. The mold pouring technique I use leaves a rough inside face on these tires and also mold flashing that must be cut off, so one side on each tire is rough (see below) but these imperfections are on the inside of each tire and not seen when mounted onto the vehicle.
Price is $60 for one tire, $165 for a set of 4 tires, or $245 for 8 tires.
Shipping and insurance is extra, email me for a quote. Sorry for the high price but these tires are made by hand, one pour at a time.
I also bought a vacuum chamber to outgas the liquid rubber after mixing, to give the best product possible with minimal air bubbles trapped in the cured rubber.
Shown here are two sets of tires. The upper 4 tires have their "rough side" facing up so you can see that they have some en-even areas. But these sides are facing the inside (towards the car body), so the un-even surfaces are hidden. The lower 4 tires in the foreground are what you see when mounted on the vehicle. They are just like the originals.
Midway's Chopper
This is a helicoper game from 1974. It was one of the first games that contained a PCB with a fair amount of digital logic ICs.
It also has electromechanical logic in it, which makes this game a unique hybrid of old and new technologies.
Aliens climb four buildings on the landscape. Your challenge is to shoot them down using a pulsating laser-beam that shoots from your police helicopter.
The helicopter's rotor blade sounds and all the background sounds are recorded on 8-track tape.
This game received a full restoration in August, 2010.
I have these parts available for Midway's Chopper.
New Old Stock SP-352 Time and Score displays, $95.00 each or 2pcs for $160.00
New Old Stock RPY-58A Photo Detector Cells, also used in many Bally and Williams gun games. See my IC Parts page for current pricing.
Brand new target motors, $68.95. These have the same torque, voltage, and stall current ratings as the original motors.
Reproduction vinyl decals for the coin door and control panel. Crisp bold colors and sharp graphics. Both come in a set for $86.95
I have posted a four part video series on YouTube that was taken while I restored this game.
Details include the machine completely taken apart and then reassembled. I sanded and repainted the cabinet,
installed new plastic edge trim, repaired electronic components, and machined new mechanical parts that were severly worn.
I also describe how many of the TTL (Transistor-to-Transistor Logic) circuits on the digital logic board work.
CLICK HERE for Part 1.
CLICK HERE for Part 2.
CLICK HERE for Part 3.
CLICK HERE for Part 4.
1937 World Series - by Rockola.
This is a rare game that is highly sought after by arcade game collectors. The game is mostly mechanical.
Electricity runs a motor that turns a large flywheel. The flywheel serves several purposes, all of which are explained in
the two-part video series, see the Youtube links below. Keeping track of hits, runs, strikes, balls, and outs,
is all done mechanically by gravity and the steel balls that the pitcher throws.
Famous ball players from 1937 are among the line-up, including Lou Gehrig, Joe DiMaggioo, and Dizzy Dean.
These are my reproduction backdrops (grandstands scenery) for both All American Baseball and Rockola World Series.
My backdops are printed on 0.060" polystyrene and then laminated with a semi-gloss film so it is super durable, washable, and won't crease or crack like the original cardboard.
They can be modified if you have custom requests. Colors can be changed and images can be added or re-arranged. Contact me for pricing and availability.
My backdrops have been faithfully reproduced to match the originals made back in the 1930s. I started by scanning each one into a high-resolution
.EPS graphics file, then I spent over 20 hours in PhotoShop on each one, to touch-up and repair any damage, and re-create the original colors as printed back in the 30's.
I did this by matching the colors of protected areas on good example backdrops. There were areas on these originals that had not seen the light of day since new,
because they were covered by screw heads, washers, and mounting brackets. I also sharpened-up every line, edge, and image. I even cleaned up the original lettering,
instead of just replacing it with an available font in PhotoShop.
I've posted a two part video series on YouTube that was taken while I serviced this game.
They show how the game works inside. Also shown (in part 1) is a long lasting game where many runs are scored.
It shows that all the rules in baseball are replicated in this game. For example, if the pitcher throws four balls (wide and to the outside),
and if your cool enough not to swing, you will automatically get you a base hit.
If the pitcher throws a ball right down the middle and you don't swing, it's a strike.
If you swing on any ball and miss, it also becomes a strike. Three strikes and your outta-there!
Getting a hit or an out will clear the ball and strike count for that batter.
CLICK HERE to watch Part 1.
CLICK HERE to watch Part 2.
In 2017 I restored both a Rock-ola World Series and an All American Baseball (the original predecessor to Rock-ola's 1937 World Series manufactured between 1929 and 1933). I posted four videos that include the following information:
CLICK HERE to watch the Rockola 1937 World Series Restoration.
CLICK HERE to watch the All-American Baseball Restoration.
CLICK HERE to watch a video describing the differences between these two games.
CLICK HERE to watch my method of adjusting the "Men on Bases" assembly.
Quarter Horse Derby
This is a payout gambling machine from 1974. It's called the Quarter Horse Derby. I repaired this machine for Todd MacCulloch who played basketball for
the Philadelphia 76ers from 2000 to 2003. The game uses an electro-mechanical computer to randomly choose a winning horse for each race.
The machine also picks new odds that each horse will pay, which is displayed on the rotating red Odds Drum in the headboard. The decorative backglass
that covers the headboard was removed in this picture. When all of the bets have been placed and the game is started, the horses race around the track with an actual
type of galloping motion as they "jockey for position" with each other. Only towards the home stretch does the preselected victor emerge from the pack
and pull ahead to clearly become the winning nag.
You can watch two videos of this action by clicking on the links below.
This picture shows the mechanism below the race track that makes the horses move. Each horse is connected to a separate chain. All chains are
driven by large plastic wheels. The wheels have notches around their outside diameters. Relay armatures will momentarilly fall into these notches
during a race and cause the horses to abruptly stop, then start moving again. This is what causes them to gallop while they race around the track.
The metal plate with all the holes in it, seen just to the right of the chains, is the starting gate. Each chain has a while peg mounted on it.
When the pegs contact the starting gate as the chains rotate, this aligns each horse to the starting position. Then, when the race is started,
the gate swings open and lets the horses move around the track. After all horses have cleared the starting gate, it swings closed and then waits
for the winning horse to finish the home stretch and contact a bar and microswitch, located on the vertical edge of the gate. This ends the race.
Here is the electro-machanical computer and controller that sits in the lower cabinet.
CLICK HERE for a very short video of the horses approaching the starting
gate when the first coin in played. You will need a media player that can show
".AVI" files (Windows Media Player will work).
CLICK HERE for a longer video that shows a full race sequence of the
Quarter Horse Derby machine.
Note on playing AVI files: If you have a firewall on your computer, like ZoneAlarm,
you may need to disable it or check its settings if this video does not play. If your firewall is blocking this download,
it will let Windows Media Player open when you click on the video link above, but then it will give you an error message that
says "it cannot find the file" or "the file does not exist." Please be patient, the video may take a minute or two to download
before it begins to play.
I wrote an article on the restoration of the Quarter Horse Derby and the Kasco Untouchable. The article was printed in the Feburary and March 2007 issues of Gameroom Magazine.
CLICK HERE to view the complete text from this article,
along with all of the pictures that appeared in Gameroom Magazine.
In addition, I video taped the restoration of the Quarter Horse Derby game and created a one hour long DVD. This video is a step-by-step tour through
the mechanical and electrical circuits inside this unique machine. It describes the game's operation from start to finish. It also shows many of the
problems that this game had, and how I repaired them. Included on the DVD, is video of the horses racing around the track while I narrate the action
and explain the sequence of events that the game progresses through. This video is available on standard-definition (low-res) DVD+R format for $64.95 plus shipping.
Rare Antique Vending Machines
This is a 1925 Pencil Vending Machine by Vendex that stamps 16 letters of your choice onto the pencil before it vends to you. I have reproduced the decal that goes in the pencil viewing window. My decals are currently available in the following formats:
1) White drop-shaddow on lettering, decal only = $95.00 or decal installed on glass and ready to use = $145.00
2) Red drop-shaddow on lettering, decal installed on glass and ready to use = $145.00
CLICK HERE to watch my video of my decal and how to re-ink the pad.
CLICK HERE to watch my video of the full restoration.
This is a 1920s era Theater Candy Vending Machine called "America's Best Candy."
This is the wider 10-column vendor which is rarer than the 6-column version.
CLICK HERE to watch my video of the full restoration.
These three pictures show the cabinet during restoration. Every broken piece was carefully re-glued or reattached with screws
before sanding and refinishing. The entire cabinet was stripped and refinished to match the original pattern.
Even though this candy machine is almost 100 years old, I could still buy the exact same veneers and in-lay strips.
The video above includes every detail of the restoration process including how to rebuild and adjust the "Advance" brand coin mechanisms.
A close up of the new finish. The majority of veneer on the cabinet is Figured Mahogany. The veneer in-between the marquetry inlay strips is Maple Burl.
I rewired the electrical lighting with all new cord and a wall plug. I also added an on/off switch for convenience. At night, the light shines down and illuminates the coin acceptors,
so you can see where to put your money.
Please contact me if you know of any similar vending machines for sale.
Antique Clocks and the International Time Recorder
I collect and restore a variety of antique clocks including Seth Thomas, Ansonia, and Jaeger LeCoultre Atmos. But my favorite are time clocks. Here are a few videos of International Time Recording clocks that I've restored.
For Part 1 of my first ITR restoration, please
CLICK HERE .
For Part 2 of my first ITR restoration, please
CLICK HERE .
Here's a few pictures of the International Time Recording Co. decal and the Rochester Time Recorder decals I sell. They are "Dry Transfer" rub-on decals that are very easy to apply. The decal is applied to the back side of the glass and has a self-curing adhesive which makes the letters permanent and very durable. Manufacturing costs of these decals can varry, so please contact me for latest pricing. I also sell the bi-color black and red ink ribbon for these time clocks.
For a video of the decals I sell, please
CLICK HERE .
Jukebox Amplifier Repair
Jukebox enthusiasts will recognize this as the arse end of an AMI Continental II "Stereo Round" jukebox. In this picture, I had just finished a complete
rebuild of the tube amplifier and I am checking its frequency response with a signal generator and O-scope. The Stereo Round is a unique design because
the speakers for the left and right channels are mounted opposing each other, on the left and right sides of the cabinet (so they face away from each other).
In order to re-create the true stereo sound of the 45RPM records being played, it is necessary to place this jukebox firmly into the corner of a room at a 45
degree angle to the walls. This causes the sound waves that emanate from the cabinet sides to bounce off the walls and travel into the center of the room
in parallel which each other and thereby create stereo sound. In addition, these stereo speakers are out of phase with the large woofer that is located
in the front base of the cabinet. This phase mismatch is necessary so that the lag created by bouncing sound waves off of the walls will be compensated
for, and corrected, in the final (cumulative) sound waves that reach your ears. It's a rather bizarre approach to stereo acoustics.
Jukebox Custom Solutions
My interface box is used to connect a Wurlitzer 2140 barbox (or Frog Box), to a Wurlitzer 24 play jukebox.
24 play mechanisms are found in models like the Wurlitzer 1015, 1100, 1080 and others.
The three units that were originally needed to connect a Frog Box, were the model 212 wireless transmitter,
the 216 wireless receiver, and the 219 stepper. My interface unit is a "wired system" that replaces all three.
A cable must be run from the frogbox to my interface unit. The interface sits inside the jukebox (where the 219 stepper would normally go)
and plugs into the 33 pin "Jones Connector" on the junction box (inside the jukebox).
The logic circuitry inside my interface unit replicates all of the original 2140 frogbox functions, which includes
1) Coin overflow lockout (barbox shuts off, if a coin gets stuck inside).
2) Play meter increment pulse (pulses the playmeter on the junction box, inside the jukebox).
3) Gives you one play for a nickel or two plays for a dime.
Why is my interface unit required?
As Wurlitzer designed it, you could not connect a Frog Box without the 212, 216, and 219 units mentioned above. It was intended to be
a wireless system. In addition, the 2140 barbox allows you to view only four selections at a time on a rotating drum that has six sides.
Due to the unique arrangement of electrical contacts on this rotating drum, decoding logic is required to convert this special "4x6 wiring matrix"
into a straight "1 thru 24" record selection pattern that the jukebox requires. My interface unit provides this translation from a "4 by 6" matrix into a "1 of 24" selection.
The circuit consists of a Programmable Logic Device (PLD) that I program, along with 24 Triacs (to drive the selection coils in the jukebox)
and a hand full of support components. I etch my own printed circuit boards and assemble these units on a "per order" basis. The price for
my interface unit is $1,750.00 plus shipping and insurance. You need to supply your own 2140 barbox.
This is the "Selection Cancel Assembly" from a Seeburg M146 thru M148 series (A.K.A. "The Trashcan") jukebox. A customer brought his Trashcan to me
for repair. It was not canceling selections once they were played (IE: the same record would play over and over without advancing to the next selection).
Diagnosis found that the Cancel Relay Coil has burned out. This was a real problem since replacement coils (at the time) were not available through jukebox parts suppliers.
Through research, I found a suitable coil that is a "form, fit and function" replacement for the original. My replacement coil is the green cylindrical piece
shown in this picture. These coils are now available directly from me or by following this link to
The Victory Glass Company.
Penny Arcade Games
I repair Mutoscope moving picture machines from the late 1800s and early 1900s.
CLICK HERE to watch my video that shows how the internal mechanism works, and to watch a funny movie reel.
I have reproduced the instruction labels and tax stamps for the Rock-ola World Series and World's Fair Jig-Saw pinball games. Each decal set includes one instruction sticker
and one federal tax sticker for
either a World Series or JigSaw as shown in the first two pictures. These decals belong on the games in the right-most picture.
My decals are printed on self-adhesive silver vinyl and then laminated with a semi-gloss clear film so they are very durable compared to the original paper labels. They are die-cut and ready to
peal and stick on your games. They can be cleaned using a mild household cleaner without damaging the printing. They are a very close match to the original
silver foil-covered paper used in the 1930s. Each set of decals (Instructions and Federal Excise Tax) is $42.95 plus shipping and insurance.
CLICK HERE to watch my Jig-Saw restoration video.
This is a penny arcade shocking machine from around 1904. "Electricity Is Life", made by the Mills Novelty Co. You drop in a nickel, grab both handles
and slowly turn the handle on the right. As you rotate the handle, an electric shock is delivered to the handles. The voltage starts out low, but increases
as you crank the handle. I can only turn it about half way before I have to let go (ouch). I repaired this machine for a customer in Jan. 2007. It's powered
by a single 1.5V #6 dry cell battery. The mechanism is very ingenious. The coin (a nickel) actually closes the electrical circuit and allows current to flow.
The battery voltage is stepped up to a shocking potential (pun intended) by a "step-up transformer," of which the secondary winding is connected to the handles.
The transformer is the skinny rod, which is vertically mounted in the center of the machine, as seen in this picture. There is a brass sleeve that covers
the transformer shaft. As you rotate the handle, this sleeve will slide down the shaft and cause the following to occur: At the start of the game when the
handle is up-right, the brass sleeve is covering the transformer windings and shunting the magnetic field. Therefore, the output voltage is low. But as the
handle is rotated, the sleeve will move down the shaft and uncover the transformer, which allows the magnetic field to grow, which in turn delivers more
"
life giving electrical stimulus" (IE: a good old fashion zap) to the person willing to deposit his nickel and hold on....
All of my repairs include sophisticated and rigorous testing to insure proper operation.
Sometimes, the battery of tests are quite
shocking !
(But I always get a
charge out of my work...)
Please contact me if you have any questions,
or visit my main webpage at http://www.GameRoomRepair.com for more information.
Thanks for your visit.
Kevin R. Keinert
4351 Beverly Dr.
Santa Maria, California
93455 USA
(805) 937-8881
kevin.keinert@gmail.com