Below is a small sampling of restorations that I have performed. Please visit the rest of my website
for more pictures, including games in my personal collection. I can provide a quote for anything from minor repairs to complete "Grade-1" restorations.
My abilities include Solid State and Electro-mechanical repairs. I work on Solid State and Vacuum Tube amplifiers for jukeboxes and radios.
I can also repair other items like antique clocks, phonographs, music boxes and Lionel trains. I hold a degree in Electronics and teach the same
at my local community college. I troubleshoot down to the component level using the oscilloscope and other test equipment.
In addition, I was a "tool and die" machinist for six years. I have a metal lathe, milling machine, gas and arc welders, and a full array of
wood working tools in my shop. I can manufacture many metal, wood and plastic parts that are no longer available for your machine.
My labor rate is $95 per hour for all services.
Here are a few pictures of a Kasco Untouchable game that I restored in 2005. Details on how this game is played can be found on my main webpage at the
Pictures of My Collection link. These two pictures show the cabinet
being repainted using custom stencils that I made by copying the existing cabinet artwork. After the stencils were traced, I completely stripped off the
old finish, repaired any cabinet damage and loose veneer, then repainted with color matched semi-gloss enamels.
This is the finished cabinet, after painting and re-assembly.
This is a close up of the robber's car. The gangster in the left rear seat is a replacement. I searched the internet and hobby stores to find a suitable
replacement for the missing mobster. The rest of the car is all original. Notice the "grain of wheat" light bulb in the white section of the car's rear
end (just under the right side gangster's machine gun). This lamp periodically flashes during game play to simulate the bad guys shooting at you. Also,
when you score a hit by shooting at these bad guys from your police car (using the gun mounted on the front of the cabinet), the gangster dressed
in blue will slump over as if he's been hit. You can watch this action by clicking on the the video link below. The sounds of screeching tires,
racing engines, breaking glass, crashing cars, machine guns and a woman's scream are all recorded on an 8-Track tape player.
CLICK HERE for a short video of the Kasco Untouchable game in action.
You will need a media player that can show ".AVI" files (Windows Media Player will work).
Note on playing AVI files: If you have a firewall on your computer, like ZoneAlarm,
you may need to disable it or check its settings if this video does not
play. If your firewall is blocking this download, it will open Windows Media Player when you click on the video link above, but then it will give
you an error message that says "it cannot find the file" or "the file does not exist." Please be patient, the video may take a minute or two to download
before it begins to play.
Mechanical Musical Instruments
This is an antique disc music box made by the Regina Company in the late 1800's. It holds twelve 27" diameter metal discs and plays them one at a time.
The discs are stored in a rack located in the lower section of the cabinet. The rack moves forwards and backwards,
lifts each disc into playing position and clamps them onto the bedplate. Protrusions on the disc will rotate star wheels and pluck the dual combs
(which are the actual teeth that make the sound). The machine is run by two giant spring wound motors,
one to run the disc changing and loading mechanism, and one to spin the discs while they are playing.
To watch this video in full screen mode, please CLICK HERE .
These two pictures show one small assembly inside the music box, which is called the "governor." Its function is to mechanically regulate the speed of the spring
motor. The Regina 27" Changer music box has two motors and two governors inside. One motor and governor set is used to
power the disk changing mechanism. The other set is used to play the disk. The first picture here, shows the individual
governor pieces after cleaning and inspection. The second picture shows the full
assembly after being put back together and mechanically adjusted.
Various pieces of the changer mechanism before cleaning and during prep for new paint.
Please contact me if you have similar repair needs. I can provide you a quote for anything from the smallest adjustment all
the way to a full restoration as shown here.
Another Regina music box that received a total restoration (cabinet refinish and mechanism rebuild). This machine plays 15-1/2" disks. The knob on the
winding handle was missing, I turned a new piece from solid brass on my lathe, polished it, then sealed it with three coats of high-gloss lacquer. The
owner of this machine asked me to restore it so that he could sell it at a local antique auction. It brought $3,750 (in November, 2005).
This is a short YouTube video of my Violano Virtuoso. This machine was made
in the early 1900s by the Mills Novelty Company. It plays an actual violin which is accompanied by a forty four note player piano.
Solid State Replacements for 8-Track Tapes
I restored a Sega Moto Champ for a customer in June, 2008. This game, like most '70s vintage games, uses an 8-track tape player
for its game sounds. Moto Champ uses two tracks on the tape. One track has engine sounds which simulate the roar of the motorcycles.
The second track has a trumpet fan fare song that is played when a free game is won. This game was missing its tape deck. Pictured
here, is a solid state replacement that I designed. This replacement contains all of the original game sounds which I recorded into special
integrated circuits after cleaning up the original audio tape to remove any clicks, pops, dropouts, and other unwanted imperfections.
It connects into the existing wiring harness in place of the original 8-track tape deck. No additional wiring or game modifications are
required. My replacement unit duplicates the operation of the original tape deck in every way. I can adapt this sound unit for any game
that needs a replacement. If your tape deck is old and tired, or completely MIA (missing-in-action), contact me for pricing and
additional information. My sound units cost between $500 and $1200 depending on the complexity of sound in a game (IE: the number of individual
tracks used on the original 8-track tape and the sequencing of when those tracks are played).
CLICK HERE to view the complete installation and Owner's Manual
for the S3-02 unit.
Bally Space Flight 8-Track Replacement Unit
The 1969 Bally Space Flight game uses a very special 8-track player. The tape contains a momentary burst of 1kHz tone
that is placed on the tape every 18.5 seconds. This tone burst is not heard through the speaker. Its purpose is to synchronize the entire game.
An analog PCB inside the tape deck detects the 1kHz tone and sends a signal to the game. This signal causes the lunar module to start its decent
towards the moon's surface. Without this tape and the tone detector board, the game won't run! Of the four Space Flight machines that have
passed through my shop, only one had a good working tape deck. Pictured here, is a solid state replacement unit (model #S3-01) that I designed.
The unit is run by a microcontroller that replicates all of the original 8-track functions. It plugs into the existing connector
in place of the original 8-track tape deck. No additional wiring or game modifications are required. There are 42 different messages contained
in the solid state audio chip, for a total of eight minutes worth of sound. Each message is the voice of the launch Commander in Houston, TX.
I cleaned up the original audio file to remove all unwanted imperfections.
The cost for my Solid State Sound (or "S3") Replacement Unit is $1,275.00 plus shipping and insurance.
Each one is hand assembled and programmed, taking two full days to complete. It is then fully tested and comes with a one year warranty.
Quantity discounts apply for buying two or more as this reduces my labor time.
CLICK HERE to view the complete installation and Owner's Manual
for the S3-01 unit.
This video shows the game in action with my S3-01 unit installed. As the video explains, I have added several features to this board
that were not possible in the original 8-track. A brief message plays when the game's main power switch is turned on.
This lets you know that the board is up and running.
There are diagnostic modes that play all eight minutes of audio messages at once, or play each message separately. I really like the
"Attract Mode" sounds that many older pinball machines have, so I added the feature to this replacement unit. Every few minutes, a five second audio
file is played while the game is idle. I picked 18 different clips that are part of complete messages. The microcontroller plays one of these clips
every few minutes. For those who do not share my enthusiasm for game attract sounds, this feature can be disabled by removing one jumper.
I also added indicator lamps that monitor the game while it's being played. There are three signals that this unit monitors/controls. When a game
is started, 110VAC is sent to my board. This voltage was originally used to power the 8-track tape motor. I detect its presence and start playing a message
from the audio IC chip. A neon lamp on my board illuminates, to show the presence of 110VAC. At the start of each message, an output signal (called "CUE")
is sent from my board to the game, and starts the lunar module's decent. A yellow LED on my board illuminates to show that the CUE output signal is
being sent. The third indicator on my replacement unit is a green LED that lights up if it receives the "OK" input signal from the game. This OK signal
indicates that the landing was successful. My microcontroller is programmed to play the main "Decent" message at the start of each landing attempt,
and then play either the "Abort" message or the "Landing OK" message, as appropriate. The audio files are retrieved from the solid state audio chip
and played together as one seamless audio file.
SPACE FLIGHT PARTS FOR SALE:
Used DT-1704 Vacuum Fluorescent Display tubes for Space Flight. $38.00 each or two for $60.00.
Each tube is tested good and guaranteed to work.
Vinyl instruction decal. Apply to your existing metal plate in front of the moon's surface, $32.95.
Reproduction upper glass. Looks exactly like the original except made from Lexan plastic, $289.00. Made to the correct full size of 6"x30", but you must
reuse the existing metal edge-trim pieces from your old glass. Shipping and insurance is extra on all items.
Slot Machine Restoration
This is a payout gambling machine made in the 1930s that plays the dice game of craps. It's simply called "Mills Dice."
You can place up to three seperate bets at once, each costing a quarter. When you place your bets and crank the handle, a pair of dice
are heard to shake and are then thrown into the large glass dome viewing window. The three individual bets that you can make are:
"Eleven" which pays 16 to 1, the "Field" which pays 2 to 1, and the "Come" which pays 2 to 1.
The Eleven and Field bets are good for a single pull of the handle. New bets can be placed in these coin slots every handle pull if desired.
When betting on the Come, if you roll a 7 or 11, you instantly win two coins.
If instead you roll a 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10, this is called your "point." The coin you just bet will appear in the appropriate point pocket window
for all to see. You then keep playing the game (for free) by cranking the handle repeatedly,
which re-throws the dice. You continue to play until either your point is made (you win two coins) or you roll a 7 (loser) which ends the game.
In either case, once you win or lose, your coin drops out of the point pocket and the game is over.
The really facinating thing about this all mechanical game, is that it not only keeps track of multiple bets placed on Eleven, Field, and Come,
but it also keeps track of multiple Come bets that can be made one after another. A new come-out bet can be placed
every time the handle is pulled, even if you're already playing for a point (or even playing for multiple points)! Let me explain.
Let's say you start a brand new game by placing a Come bet and you roll a 6 on the dice. Your quarter drops into the 6 point pocket window.
Now before pulling the handle and trying for your point, you can place a new Come bet. So now when the dice are thrown,
the previous bet is hoping for a 6 while the new Come bet is hoping for a 7. If a 7 is rolled, the Come bet wins (you get paid for that)
but the point bet loses, which causes the #6 point pocket to open and the coin drops into the owner's cash box. If a 6 is thrown,
the existing 6 point wins, that coin is cleared from the pocket, and then the Come bet (coin) drops into
the #6 pocket (replacing the previous coin that just vacated this pocket).
So you get to keep rollin' them bones, hoping for another 6. If a different point is made instead
(4, 5, 8, 9, or 10), you will now have multiple point pockets with coins displayed in them. Lucky shooters can fill all six point pockets with coins.
Then all subsequent points thrown on the dice will pay off as that new Come bet replaces the previous point, and the player just keeps on rolling.
But be careful. If you throw a 7, all points pockets drop their coins and the game is over (you just Crapped-Out)!
Do you like to put puzzles together?
Here's the machine completely disassembled, during the restoration process.
100 hours went into the tear-down, cleaning, repair, re-assembly and adjustment of this mechanism.
I've created an instructional DVD video in high-definition, that was taken during the restoration of this game. The video runs approximately 1 hour & 38 minutes,
and contains the following thirteen chapters: 1) Introduction. 2) How Does it Read the Dice? 3) Place Your Bets. 4) Removing Mech From Cabinet.
5) Mech Assembly Process. 6) Clock and Tilt Mechs. 7) Dice Shaker/Sound Generator. 8) Interaction Between Mech and Cabinet. 9) Payout Sequence.
10) Repairs. 11) Mech Adjustments. 12) Cabinet refinishing. 13) Conclusion.
This DVD walks you through the complete assembly process and also shows you every adjustment on the mechanism. I describe each adjustment's purpose and how
to check for proper operation. I also show you how to cycle the mechanism outside of the cabinet and control the dice wheel so that any winning or losing
combination can be quickly and easily tested. This DVD is available for purchase in two formats: High-Def: 720 lines of resolution, 4:3 aspect ratio, recorded on DVD+R 4.7GB media. Will play on all modern DVD players. Price = $38.95 plus shipping.
Blu-Ray: 1080 lines of resolution, 16:9 aspect ratio, recorded on BD-R 25GB media. Will play on all Blu-Ray DVD players. Price = $54.95 plus shipping.
These DVDs will also play on your personal computer, but your microprocessor needs to be a high-speed/multi-core type, or else the video playback will freeze and skip, etc.
Need a sneak-preview of my Mills Dice DVD?
Here's a two part YouTube video that shows brief clips from the full-length epic motion picture...
Part 1 is on the left, Part 2 is on the right.
Do you need new dice for your Mills Dice machine?
These are brand new replacement dice of the correct size and translucent color.
They have rounded corners to prevent jamming and depressed white spots so the numbers won't wear off.
Price is $6.50 each, $24.95 for 5pcs, or $68.95 for 31pcs (that's a complete set of 30 dice plus one extra as a spare).
Please contact me for a shipping quote to your location.
These are more (all mechanical) payout dice machines, also made in the 1930s. The red machine is a Buckley Bones.
The yellow one is a Bally Reliance. They both use the same internal mechanism. When you insert a coin and crank the handle, a pair of dice
are heard to shake and are then thrown into the left-side viewing window. This is your "come-out" roll. If you roll a 7 or 11, you instantly win two coins.
If you roll a 2, 3, or 12, then you have just "Crapped-Out" and the game ends (handle cannot be cranked until another coin is played).
If you roll a 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10, this is your "point" and you get to continue playing the game (for free) by cranking the handle repeatedly,
which then throws out a second pair of dice in the right-side viewing window. You continue to crank the handle and roll the right hand dice until either your
point is made (you win) or you roll a 7 (a loser) which ends the game. If you win on the point roll, a 6 or 8 will pay two coins while a 4, 5, 9, or 10
will pay eight coins. The game also has a jackpot that is equivalent to 100 coins. The jackpot, called the "Gold Award," can be seen through a window
on the front of the machine. The award is a gold token that is good for 100 coins when presented to the owner of the machine. Each coin has a unique
serial number stamped on its back so the proprietor could keep track of the winners and also verify that the gold coin came from his machine.
I have posted a five part video series on YouTube that walks you through the complete operation of the Buckley Bones and shows the game in action.
Details include the machine completely torn apart and then reassembled.
The video seen here on my website is Part 1.
An upright single-wheel slot machine with a patent date of 1899, made by the Mills Novelty Company in Chicago, IL. This is the "Two Bits Dewey" model. Two Bits means that is takes a quarter to play (as eight bits = $1.00). Mills also included a pair or horse bridal bits (two bits) on the center glass to further tie in the theme of 25 cent play. Most machines at the start of the 20th century were a penny or nickle play. The Dewey model was named after Admiral Dewey who had just returned as a naval war hero after winning a key battle in the Spanish-American War. The Dewey came in a number of variations including a model that had a visible jackpot, a model that played a music cylinder in its base with every handle pull, and a variety of cabinet metal castings, center glass designs, and color wheel designs.
To watch this video in full screen mode, please CLICK HERE .
These are before and after pictures of a slot machine from the 1930s, made by the Mills Novelty Co. It is called an "FOK Vendor" (which stands for Front O.K. Vendor).
This machine vends a roll of mints for each nickel played, it was a way to get around the gambling laws of some states because you
"got something for your money" so it wasn't a "gambling device" (that's what the manufacturer claimed, most law enforcement
officials didn't agree...). This slot machine also tells your fortune by lining up words of a complete sentence across the three reels.
Each spin of the reels lined up different parts of the sentence to form your complete fortune.
Here's something you don't see everyday. It's a Watling "Rol-A-Top" slot machine in the original shipping crate! (a rare item indeed). This belonged to
local clients who were selling off their collection before moving to another state. They had me sell several items (including this slot
machine) on Ebay. I took lots of pictures and video to post on youtube, I wrote detailed descriptions and listed the items on Ebay. I collected the money from each
sale, then packaged and shipped all items. In exchange for my time, we split the net profits from each sale, after paying Ebay and Paypal fees.
Pneumatic Gambling Games
This is a payout gambling machine from the 1930s. It's called Paces Races. I restored this machine for a customer in Beverly Hills, CA.
The game uses an electric motor to pump a set of pneumatic bellows, which creates a constant vacuum that runs the entire game.
You can watch three videos of the game in action by clicking on the links below. The position of each horse as they move
alone the track, is determined by holes punched in a piano roll. The roll is pulled over a tracker bar in the same fashion as player pianos
of the same vintage. As the holes in the paper pass over the tracker bar, air is sucked into various valves that open and cause larger
bellows to collapse. These larger bellows are linked to the horses and cause them to jump or gallop towards the finish line.
Many other things are happening inside this game, and it's all driven by vacuum! The game is a payout slot machine with jackpot feature.
You win the jackpot if your horse comes in first, has 30-to-1 payout odds (set at the start of each game, after the horses
take off running), and if the "lucky fortune wheel" (which also spins after game start) lands on a horseshoe symbol with the word "Winner"
written on it.
Paces Races uses a set or fourteen rubber bumpers which act as cushions or shock absorbers for the wooden racks that advance the horses.
The thicker bumpers go on the inside and the thinner bumpers go on the outside as seen here. I sell brand new bumpers, shown in the
first picture, for $26.95 per full set of 14pcs, or $19.95 for two or more sets.
I have posted three videos on YouTube that walk you through the operation of Paces Races and show the game in action.
The video seen here is Part 1.
This is a helicoper game from 1974. It was one of the first games that contained a PCB with a fair amount of digital logic ICs.
It also has electromechanical logic in it, which makes this game a unique hybrid of old and new technologies.
Aliens climb four buildings on the landscape. Your challenge is to shoot them down using a pulsating laser-beam that shoots from your police helicopter.
The helicopter's rotor blade sounds and all the background sounds are recorded on 8-track tape.
This game received a full restoration in August, 2010.
I have these parts available for Midway's Chopper.
New Old Stock SP-352 Time and Score displays, $95.00 each or 2pcs for $160.00
New Old Stock RPY-58A Photo Detector Cells, also used in many Bally and Williams gun games. See my IC Parts page for current pricing.
Brand new target motors, $58.95. These have the same torque, voltage, and stall current ratings as the original motors.
Reproduction vinyl decals for the coin door and control panel. Crisp bold colors and sharp graphics. Both come in a set for $46.95
I have posted a four part video series on YouTube that was taken while I restored this game.
Details include the machine completely taken apart and then reassembled. I sanded and repainted the cabinet,
installed new plastic edge trim, repaired electronic components, and machined new mechanical parts that were severly worn.
I also describe how many of the TTL (Transistor-to-Transistor Logic) circuits on the digital logic PCB work.
The video seen here on my website is Part 1.
1937 World Series - by Rockola.
This is a rare game that is highly sought after by arcade game collectors. The game is mostly mechanical.
Electricity runs a motor that turns a large flywheel. The flywheel serves several purposes, all of which are explained in
the two-part video series, see the Youtube links below. Keeping track of hits, runs, strikes, balls, and outs,
is all done mechanically by gravity and the steel balls that the pitcher throws.
Famous ball players from 1937 are among the line-up, including Lou Gehrig, Joe DiMaggioo, and Dizzy Dean.
I've posted a two part video series on YouTube that was taken while I restored this game.
They show how the game works inside. Also shown (in part 1) is a long lasting game where many runs are scored.
It shows that all the rules in baseball are replicated in this game. For example, if the pitcher throws four balls (wide and to the outside),
and if your cool enough not to swing, you will automatically get you a base hit.
If the pitcher throws a ball right down the middle and you don't swing, it's a strike.
If you swing on any ball and miss, it also becomes a strike. Three strikes and your outta-there!
Getting a hit or an out will clear the ball and strike count for that batter.
Quarter Horse Derby
This is a payout gambling machine from 1974. It's called the Quarter Horse Derby. I repaired this machine for Todd MacCulloch who played basketball for
the Philadelphia 76ers from 2000 to 2003. The game uses an electro-mechanical computer to randomly choose a winning horse for each race.
The machine also picks new odds that each horse will pay, which is displayed on the rotating red Odds Drum in the headboard. The decorative backglass
that covers the headboard was removed in this picture. When all of the bets have been placed and the game is started, the horses race around the track with an actual
type of galloping motion as they "jockey for position" with each other. Only towards the home stretch does the preselected victor emerge from the pack
and pull ahead to clearly become the winning nag. You can watch two videos of this action by clicking on the links below.
This picture shows the mechanism below the race track that makes the horses move. Each horse is connected to a separate chain. All chains are
driven by large plastic wheels. The wheels have notches around their outside diameters. Relay armatures will momentarilly fall into these notches
during a race and cause the horses to abruptly stop, then start moving again. This is what causes them to gallop while they race around the track.
The metal plate with all the holes in it, seen just to the right of the chains, is the starting gate. Each chain has a while peg mounted on it.
When the pegs contact the starting gate as the chains rotate, this aligns each horse to the starting position. Then, when the race is started,
the gate swings open and lets the horses move around the track. After all horses have cleared the starting gate, it swings closed and then waits
for the winning horse to finish the home stretch and contact a bar and microswitch, located on the vertical edge of the gate. This ends the race.
Here is the electro-machanical computer and controller that sits in the lower cabinet.
CLICK HERE for a very short video of the horses approaching the starting
gate when the first coin in played. You will need a media player that can show ".AVI" files (Windows Media Player will work).
CLICK HERE for a longer video that shows a full race sequence of the
Quarter Horse Derby machine.
Note on playing AVI files: If you have a firewall on your computer, like ZoneAlarm,
you may need to disable it or check its settings if this video does not play. If your firewall is blocking this download,
it will let Windows Media Player open when you click on the video link above, but then it will give you an error message that
says "it cannot find the file" or "the file does not exist." Please be patient, the video may take a minute or two to download
before it begins to play.
I wrote an article on the restoration of the Quarter Horse Derby and the Kasco Untouchable. The article was printed in the Feburary and March 2007 issues of
CLICK HERE to view the complete text from this article,
along with all of the pictures that appeared in Gameroom Magazine.
In addition, I video taped the restoration of the Quarter Horse Derby game and created a one hour long DVD. This video is a step-by-step tour through
the mechanical and electrical circuits inside this unique machine. It describes the game's operation from start to finish. It also shows many of the
problems that this game had, and how I repaired them. Included on the DVD, is video of the horses racing around the track while I narrate the action
and explain the sequence of events that the game progresses through. This video is available on standard-definition (low-res) DVD+R format for $24.95 plus shipping.
Rare Antique Vending Machines
This is a 1920s era Theater Candy Vending Machine called "America's Best Candy."
This is the wider 10-column vendor which is rarer than the 6-column version.
To watch this video in full screen mode, please CLICK HERE .
These three pictures show the cabinet during restoration. Every broken piece was carefully re-glued or reattached with screws
before sanding and refinishing. The entire cabinet was stripped and refinished to match the original pattern.
Even though this candy machine is almost 100 years old, I could still buy the exact same veneers and in-lay strips.
The video above includes every detail of the restoration process including how to rebuild and adjust the "Advance" brand coin mechanisms.
A close up of the new finish. The majority of veneer on the cabinet is Figured Mahogany. The veneer in-between the marquetry inlay strips is Maple Burl.
I rewired the electrical lighting with all new cord and a wall plug. I also added an on/off switch for convenience. At night, the light shines down and illuminates the coin acceptors,
so you can see where to put your money.
Please contact me if you know of any similar vending machines for sale.
Antique Clocks and the International Time Recorder
I collect and restore a variety of antique clocks including Seth Thomas, Ansonia, and Jaeger LeCoultre Atmos. But my favorite are time clocks. Here are a few videos of International Time Recording clocks that I've restored.
For a video of the decals I have for sale, please CLICK HERE .
Here's a few pictures of the International Time Recording Co. decal and the Rochester Time Recorder dacal that I sell. They are "Dry Transfer" rub-on decals that are very easy to apply. The decal is applied to the back side of the glass and has a self-curing adhesive which makes the letters permanent and very durable. Manufacturing costs of these decals can varry, so please contact me for latest pricing. I also sell the bi-color ribbon for these time clocks.
Jukebox Amplifier Repair
Jukebox enthusiasts will recognize this as the arse end of an AMI Continental II "Stereo Round" jukebox. In this picture, I had just finished a complete
rebuild of the tube amplifier and I am checking its frequency response with a signal generator and O-scope. The Stereo Round is a unique design because
the speakers for the left and right channels are mounted opposing each other, on the left and right sides of the cabinet (so they face away from each other).
In order to re-create the true stereo sound of the 45RPM records being played, it is necessary to place this jukebox firmly into the corner of a room at a 45
degree angle to the walls. This causes the sound waves that emanate from the cabinet sides to bounce off the walls and travel into the center of the room
in parallel which each other and thereby create stereo sound. In addition, these stereo speakers are out of phase with the large woofer that is located
in the front base of the cabinet. This phase mismatch is necessary so that the lag created by bouncing sound waves off of the walls will be compensated
for, and corrected, in the final (cumulative) sound waves that reach your ears. It's a rather bizarre approach to stereo acoustics.
Jukebox Custom Solutions
My interface box is used to connect a Wurlitzer 2140 barbox (or Frog Box), to a Wurlitzer 24 play jukebox.
24 play mechanisms are found in models like the Wurlitzer 1015, 1100, 1080 and others.
The three units that were originally needed to connect a Frog Box, were the model 212 wireless transmitter,
the 216 wireless receiver, and the 219 stepper. My interface unit is a "wired system" that replaces all three.
A cable must be run from the frogbox to my interface unit. The interface sits inside the jukebox (where the 219 stepper would normally go)
and plugs into the 33 pin "Jones Connector" on the junction box (inside the jukebox).
The logic circuitry inside my interface unit replicates all of the original 2140 frogbox functions, which includes
1) Coin overflow lockout (barbox shuts off, if a coin gets stuck inside).
2) Play meter increment pulse (pulses the playmeter on the junction box, inside the jukebox).
3) Gives you one play for a nickel or two plays for a dime.
Why is my interface unit required?
As Wurlitzer designed it, you could not connect a Frog Box without the 212, 216, and 219 units mentioned above. It was intended to be
a wireless system. In addition, the 2140 barbox allows you to view only four selections at a time on a rotating drum that has six sides.
Due to the unique arrangement of electrical contacts on this rotating drum, decoding logic is required to convert this special "4x6 wiring matrix"
into a straight "1 thru 24" record selection pattern that the jukebox requires. My interface unit provides this translation from a "4 by 6" matrix into a "1 of 24" selection.
The circuit consists of a Programmable Logic Device (PLD) that I program, along with 24 Triacs (to drive the selection coils in the jukebox)
and a hand full of support components. I etch my own printed circuit boards and assemble these units on a "per order" basis. The price for
my interface unit is $1,750.00 plus shipping and insurance. You need to supply your own 2140 barbox.
This is the "Selection Cancel Assembly" from a Seeburg M146 thru M148 series (A.K.A. "The Trashcan") jukebox. A customer brought his Trashcan to me
for repair. It was not canceling selections once they were played (IE: the same record would play over and over without advancing to the next selection).
Diagnosis found that the Cancel Relay Coil has burned out. This was a real problem since replacement coils (at the time) were not available through jukebox parts suppliers.
Through research, I found a suitable coil that is a "form, fit and function" replacement for the original. My replacement coil is the green cylindrical piece
shown in this picture. These coils are now available directly from me or by following this link to
The Victory Glass Company.
Penny Arcade Games
I repair Mutoscope moving picture machines.
This video shows the internal mechanism and a funny movie reel.
This is a penny arcade shocking machine from around 1904. "Electricity Is Life", made by the Mills Novelty Co. You drop in a nickel, grab both handles
and slowly turn the handle on the right. As you rotate the handle, an electric shock is delivered to the handles. The voltage starts out low, but increases
as you crank the handle. I can only turn it about half way before I have to let go (ouch). I repaired this machine for a customer in Jan. 2007. It's powered
by a single 1.5V #6 dry cell battery. The mechanism is very ingenious. The coin (a nickel) actually closes the electrical circuit and allows current to flow.
The battery voltage is stepped up to a shocking potential (pun intended) by a "step-up transformer," of which the secondary winding is connected to the handles.
The transformer is the skinny rod, which is vertically mounted in the center of the machine, as seen in this picture. There is a brass sleeve that covers
the transformer shaft. As you rotate the handle, this sleeve will slide down the shaft and cause the following to occur: At the start of the game when the
handle is up-right, the brass sleeve is covering the transformer windings and shunting the magnetic field. Therefore, the output voltage is low. But as the
handle is rotated, the sleeve will move down the shaft and uncover the transformer, which allows the magnetic field to grow, which in turn delivers more
"life giving electrical stimulus" (IE: a good old fashion zap) to the person willing to deposit his nickel and hold on....
All of my repairs include sophisticated and rigorous testing to insure proper operation.
Sometimes, the battery of tests are quite shocking !
(But I always get a charge out of my work...)